The Steppe, Patagonia
Wandering through the Steppe in Patagonia
Crossing over the steppe is unavoidable if you are visiting the Welsh colony in Patagonia. The Chubut valley on the Atlantic coast and Cwm Hyfryd in the Andes are more than 600 kilometres (375 miles) apart with the limitless expanses of steppe between them.
Travelling over the steppe, normally a highpoint, is an opportunity to marvel in amazement at the astonishing and striking scenery, set in an ambience of silence and tranquillity, while gazing at infinite horizons. The steppe abounds in history - in the history and place names of the old Welsh colonisers that ventured into and pioneered the steppe. Feel the thrill of finding ruts and grooves worn down by the old wagons, or a piece of chunky coloured glass, shards of old pottery, a horseshoe or a rusty piece of metal once belonging to an old bridle.
Although it is possible to cross the steppe in a coach, this does not give you the opportunity to stop and stay a while in any particular place, as the coaches whizz by all that is of interest, historical or otherwise. It is also possible to cross the steppe in a rented car but the landscape itself will not tell you everything about the exploits and adventures of the old Welsh colonists.
It is possible to cross the steppe from the Chubut valley to the Andes in less than 6 hours but a journey of this kind will be no better than watching landscapes zoom by on a television screen. The best way of crossing the steppe, without a doubt, is in the company of someone who is familiar with the old tales of the Welsh colonisers and the places of interest associated with their journeys and explorations. Wandering over the steppe can mean a whole day’s journey or even a journey of various days depending on your desire to roam and deepen your knowledge of the history of the Welsh colony in Patagonia.
Crossing the steppe with us is the key to unlocking the historical and heroic mysteries of the Welsh colonists in a place that was so unfamiliar and strange to them. While roaming about, you will relive the emotions of the colonists, following in their footsteps and standing in the very same places, gazing, as they did, at the ageless landscapes. Only by wandering over the steppe will you be rewarded with the treasures of the Patagonian steppe.
This excursion is an opportunity to travel through time and learn about or hear about Gwastad Mawddwy, Bannau Beiddio, Clafdy, Hirdaith Edwin, Dyffryn y Merthyron, John Daniel Evans, Dôl yr Ymlid, Dôl y Plu, Bedd Jack Lewis, Hafn y Glo, Rocky Trip, Dyffryn yr Allorau, Hanner Lleuad, Llygad Du, Rhyd yr Indiaid, Bocs Gin, Pant Ffwdan, Pant y Gwaed, Bwlch y Gwynt, Dyffryn Teca, Tafarn Fedw, Nant y Cwtsh, Hafn John Henry Jones, Nant y Pysgod, Llwyd ap Iwan, Mynydd Llwyd a Bwlch Esquel.
Are you interested in wandering the steppe in Patagonia?
Piedra Parada, Chubut Valley
Piedra Parada is located in the higher Chubut valley on the banks of the Río Chubut some 150 kilometres (95 miles) from Esquel, Cwm Hyfryd. Piedra Parada, once a volcanic plug, is a large stone standing upright, with a height of over 300 metres (1,000 feet), in the middle of the Chubut valley. The location is unique in terms of beauty and geological wealth. On a historical note, Piedra Parada was one of the places that the Rifleros established a camp during their expedition of the territory in 1885. In this outlying oasis, you will be able to share a typical asado on an estancia with local people and then be guided on a trek though Cañadon de la Buitrera canyon with walls over 300 metres (1,000 feet) in height.
It is possible to include additional activities to this excursion in order to benefit fully from you visit to this special place. Amongst the possibilities are floating gently downriver in a raft with the flow of the Río Chubut until reaching Piedra Parada, or walks concentrating on the incredible geology and geography of the site with an expert, or abseiling in Cañadon de la Buitrera canyon, and staying one or more night while rafting greater distances down the Río Chubut.
4x4 Excursion – Trail of the Rifleros
In 1885, a group of 30 horsemen called the Rifleros, that included 20 Welsh colonists, follow the river Chubut westwards towards the Andes. After a journey of over 700 kilometres (435 miles), the Rifleros climb up to the Craig Goch ridge, above where Trevelin is today. They were so stunned by the views that the immortal words ‘Well, what a beautiful valley!’ were uttered which named the valley “Cwm Hyfryd” in Welsh.
This half day 4x4 excursion is an opportunity to follow part of the journey of the Rifleros. The journey begins in Cwm Hyfryd and then on to Mynydd Llwyd, Nant y Pysgod, Hafn John Henry Jones, Dyffryn Teca, Nant y Cwtsh, Llyn Cronometer, Pigyn Thomas, Aber Gyrraints, Pentre Sydyn and return to Bro Hydref and Trevelin.
On this unforgettable journey, you will see magnificent views and stand on a high point that divides the waters that either flow to the Atlantic or Pacific. You will also see the typical wildlife of the Patagonian steppe, possibly including a condor or two, the Holdich Stone and Pentre Sydyn museum.
4x4 Excursion – Trail of the Martyrs
In 1883, John Daniel Evans, Richard Davies, John Hughes and John Parry explore west in search of gold, towards the Andes, further than any other exploration had done so until then. Their lifeline was the Río Chubut and by following the river, they eventually discovered the river Afon Eira. At this point, near where the town of Gualjaina is today, the Welsh explorers came across two Mapuche indians. The colonists had not developed an understanding with the Mapuche people as they had done so with the Tehuelche and fearing for their lives, began the long journey back to the colonies in the lower Chubut valley.
A considerable distance lower down river, John Daniel Evans manages to escape the attack of the Mapuche indians and lived to guide the Rifleros expedition to the Andes two years later. The other three colonists did not survive the incident.
This full day 4x4 excursion is an opportunity to follow the central part of the journey of the Rifleros and learn about John Daniel Evans and the three martyrs. The journey begins in Cwm Hyfryd and then on to Mynydd Llwyd, Nant y Pysgod, Afon Eira, Afon Camwy, Piedra Parada, y Llaw, Hafn yr Aur, Craig yr Eryr, Paso Berwyn and Rhyd yr Indiaid. Continuing along the principal surfaced road through Bocs Gin, Pant Ffwdan, Bwlch y Gwynt, Dyffryn Teca, Tafarn Fedw, Nant y Cwtsh, Hafn John Henry Jones and through Bwlch Esquel back to Cwm Hyfryd.
